"Jen, did you know Zaragoza has an actual leaning tower?"
Jen’s eyes went huge. "And it’s only a 10-minute walk that way!" I added.
"Let’s go!"
With that, we set off on a mission through the gorgeous, winding old streets of Zaragoza, eyes constantly trained on the sky in search of a massive, tilted brick tower. We wandered... we looked up... we wandered some more... and looked up again. Nothing.
Finally, because we are strong, independent women who can admit when we’re slightly off track, we pulled out Google Maps.
We backtracked a little, turned down a side street, checked the map again, and confirmed the verdict: we were standing bang on the target. But there was no leaning tower in sight—just a row of perfectly straight, handsome Spanish buildings. Not an "on the huh" wonky wall anywhere.
Confused, we looked down, spotted a small bronze statue nearby, and decided to do a bit of digging.
1. The Tale of El Torre Nueva (The New Tower)
It turns out we weren't crazy—there was a leaning tower here!
Built in 1504, the Torre Nueva (New Tower) was a magnificent Mudéjar-style clock tower that stood proudly in the Plaza de San Felipe. Construction was rushed, and the foundations were laid over an old wall, causing the tower to tilt almost immediately after it was completed.
For nearly four centuries, it was Zaragoza's proudest landmark, rivaling Italy's famous Leaning Tower of Pisa.
2. Why Was It Torn Down?
Unlike Pisa, which embraced its tilted icon and eventually stabilized it, the city council of Zaragoza panicked.
By the late 19th century, authorities deemed the leaning structure a dangerous public safety hazard. Despite fierce opposition and protests from local residents, artists, and historians who wanted to preserve it, demolition began in 1892.
By 1893, Zaragoza’s incredible leaning tower was completely gone, reduced to bricks and memory.
3. Walking on Imaginary History Today
If you visit the Plaza de San Felipe today, you won't see a tower, but the city hasn't forgotten its lost masterpiece:
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The Foundation Stones: Look carefully at the paving stones in the square, and you’ll see the original outline of the tower's base embedded into the ground.
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The Boy Gazing Upwards: On a small pedestal in the plaza sits a charming bronze statue of a young boy sitting on the floor, looking up with awe into the empty sky where the tower once stood.
We didn't find the towering spectacle we originally set out to see, but uncovering the story behind Spain's lost tower turned out to be one of the most incredible moments of our entire trip.
Over to You!
Have you ever set out to find a famous sight while traveling, only to discover a fascinating slice of forgotten history instead? What’s your favourite "happy accident" travel story?
Let us know in the comments below!
Jenna xx
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